I have a Joss 20 ounce cue, I would like you to create me a new shaft, and also if possible change the weight from 20 to 18 ounces. I meet you once at Shoot the Bull when you were returning a project you did for Mark. I was very impressed with your work. I know Rick Morris an saw the sneaky pete you created for him.
The price for that cue is $745 and includes shipping. I priced it with a linen wrap, leather is available for $50 more. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Hello Brice, the price on my shafts with nice ring work is $150. Getting one in the +4 ounce range when depend on availability as these shafts are less common.
Hi Bryan. I have a question. What is cheaper to buy a Willie hoppe cue on ebay and get it redone cause I like the color fromate or have one made to that formate . I know that Prather cues sell the splice butt. I sold my Bender cue so I want to replace it with a Willie hoppe color formate cue. I hope this will be my last cue. I’m not getting any younger. I have a sneaky pete cue from Prather . Please let me know .I know it take about 3 to four months to make a good cue. Mahalo……..Ben
What is the lead time on a typical cue….like the spliced models that were available 9until ecently) on your website? I really like your approach and would be very interested in ordering one in the near future. I also prefer a long pro taper…like the Predator 314. With this long taper would your cue still have a firm hit? I have seen / tried other conventional shafts with this taper that seem much too whippy for my liking.
Thanks in advance,
Dane Peshe
Current lead time is around 4 to 5 months on most cues. My shaft taper is not that unlike a Predators, I also prefer a stiffer/firm hitting shaft. Please let me know if I can be of further help.
Bryan,
I have read some very complimentary reviews of the playability of your cues. And I’m certainly comfortable with your workmanship. So I can safely say that I will call you to discuss an order after the holidays.
Your response to my shaft question tells me that one of your standard $400.00 cues would fit the bill. I’m not a collecter so playability is my #1 priority. I prefer an ivory joint with a 3/8×10 pin. So can you tell me what the upcharge would be for one of your standard cues that we see for $400.00 with an ivory joint? Also can you give me your take on the hit of your standard joint material , which, I assume is some type of phenolic in comparison to your standard joint material? My experience has been with one solid ivory joint (years ago) and lately the 5/16thx14 stainless steel joints.
Thanks,
Dane
I appreciate comments. I would be happy to work with you on a cue. I’m not a big user of ivory these days. I have always thought of it as a nice material but it is costly. Ivory joints add $150 to the price of the cue. I honestly don’t feel there is an improvement to the hit in my cues using this material. I really feel phenolic is the best material for cue collars and butt caps. Phenolic very rarely cracks whereas it can be a problem with ivory. My point is why pay more for a material that can potentially do this.
Hi Bryan, I was wondering if you are still making sneaky petes, if so I was interested in one with a bacote splice into BEM. Natural collars with your ring work and one shaft with your standard ferrule and tip. What would the deposit be as well as the turn around time? Thanks!
Hi Jason, yes I am still making SP’s. I usually make them in small groups and have plans to make a group next month. The SP you described would be $340 shipped. The deposit is $170. I would have it ready sometime early December. Just shoot me an email with your contact info and I will send you an invoice.
Hey Bryan,
I have a cue thats wrapless. I was wondering if it possible to put a leather wrap on it? And if so what your turn around time for that and the cost ?
It possible to do this but the butt must be perfectly straight in order to cut a good wrap groove. I would put the cost of that job at $140. I weed need the cue for a week.
Thanks for your inout on ivory vs. the Aegis-2. I makes a lot of sense. I like the fact that the Aegis-2 is as “bullet proof” from what I hear and it looks great. I especially like the cue #200958. Your approach in designs are really beautifully straight forward ….. very traditional and your woods and workmanship and craftsmanship are first rate. Is cue #200958 a spilce or are the points inlays? All of my cues, in the past, i.e., a Predator 4K3 have been inlayed point and I’ve never played with a fully spliced cue. I’d like to know what your opinion is regarding playability. Are there diffences in hit? I know everybody’s got their own opinion of inlays vs. spliced, especially with the “sneaky pete” guys swear by the spliced cues, but I’ve also discussed this with other players who tell me that there is really no difference at all.
I also have a question about cue ball deflection. I’ve been using 314 shafts for about 3 years now. I like the lower deflection playability and accuracy, but like a lot of people say, they Predators don’t have a rewarding feel of a first rate conventional hard maple shaft. I’ve heard very good reviews about the “hit” of a BCM shafts, but can you tell me if the deflection of your shafts compared to the laminated 314′s? I’ve played for years with conventional shafts until the last several years. I guess the “holy grail” is a shaft/cue that has a rewarding feel of solid maple with the deflection of a good laminated shaft. Sorry for the length of my email, but I’d like to get your take on the shafts.
Thanks, as always,
Dane
That birdseye and purpleheart four point had a short splice front. I believe any cues hit is the result of the sum of all its parts. These parts, materials, and assembly process will determine the final hit. Many customers of mine have selected a Predator option for their BCM cue. I can make a custom matched 314 for any of my cues. That being said I personally think a lot of my shafts and their playability. I happen to prefer a traditional pro-taper shaft with a medium stiff hit. While Predator shafts have a nice taper and play nice, they do play differently of course. You also pay a premium for that brand. It all boils down to personal preference. I suggest spending some time playing with my traditional shaft and you can always get a matched Predator shaft later.
Have read many good reviews of your work on the AZ forum, and am looking forward to getting my first custom cue so i just have some questions for you, do bear with me as i’m kinda new to this ..
Is it possible to have the shafts turned to 12.5mm but still retain the shape of your custom taper, how much will playability be affected ? I’m thinking a cue that’s forward-balanced, 19 – 20oz, 12.5mm shafts, possible ?
I’ve got small hands so having a thinner shaft helps when using a closed bridge, and will there be additional cost for this request ?
I’ve seen your Excel price sheet and noticed that it lists Wizard and Premium tips, i’m guessing premium stands for any tip that i would want installed, correct me if i’m wrong here .. i have preference for Kamui Black SS tips , but what would you recommend that’s best for your cues?
Lastly, i live in the Asian tropic regions, the weather and high humidity is a drastic change from where you are, would there be any special preparation for a cue coming over here and how would that affect the delivery time ?
Hope to hear from you soon , many thanks in advance !
Kenny
Hi Kenny, thanks for your comments. Yes, you can have your shaft sized down to 12.5 mm without running into issues. I always blend any taper when a smaller size is requested. The idea is to maintain as much rigidity as possibly while still delivering the requested size. Tips are very much a personal preference, my favorites are: wizard, kamui, wb, and moori. You can’t go wrong with any of those. The Kamui’s are a premium tip and priced accordingly. Extreme changes in climate can always produce potential problems for cues. All of my cues are made from stable pieces of wood and sealed with epoxy prior to finishing with clear coat. This helps slow any rapid release or gain of moisture that may cause warping. My build process is consistent regardless of where its going. I do my best to make sure the final product is in the best possible shape, the rest is in mother natures hands.
I have a Sierra cue with a leather wrap and wondering what it would cost and how long it would take to refinish the butt. It has a few bumps and bruises on the forearm and butt.
I am not sure if you do any repair or refinishing work but thought I would inquire.
I’m interested in a snooker style cue for pool. The features I’m interested in are a flat-sided butt, wood to wood joint, 10mm tip, and made of ash. If you’re interested, let me know. Thanks.
I’ve had one of your earlier 4 pt. purpleheart w/3 thin inlays (black/purpleheart/red) into a maple forearm, black butt cap w/double R.R. ring, black joint w/double R.R. rings and a black wrap for quite a while. What is the cost to re-hab. it and how long does it take? Butt cap does have a small chip on it, the rest is normal wear and tear.
Thanks for letting me know.
Wayne Nance
CueKOTE International Co.
Greensboro, NC 27410
phone: 1-800-710-2832
e-mail: wnance@triad.rr.com
I hope your doing well Wayne, I would be happy to help. If you need a refinish it would be $150 and includes a new linen wrap. Turn around time is 2 weeks. Glad to read your still shooting with your BCM!
Your cues look great and seem to enjoy a great reputation. I am am wondering if you offer “old wood” shafts and what is your take on these woods and others (like bowling alley wood)?
Thanks for the kind words. All of the wood used in my cues is aged in various degrees. When it comes to shafts my grading criteria is fairly simple; I want a shaft that is clean (no sugar marks or mineral deposits) and straight. High ring count is nice but is by no means necessary for me. I haven’t gotten into the bowling alley maple or the submerged timbers. I would imagine these “specialty” type maples are even harder to find with regularity. I am very happy with the maple I am currently using. Thanks for the question.
I have a Joss 20 ounce cue, I would like you to create me a new shaft, and also if possible change the weight from 20 to 18 ounces. I meet you once at Shoot the Bull when you were returning a project you did for Mark. I was very impressed with your work. I know Rick Morris an saw the sneaky pete you created for him.
Hi Mike:
I would be happy to help with the shaft. The weight may or may not be adjustable, I’ll have to check it out.
Bryan,
What are the standard pins you use on your cues? Are they 3/8-10 or 3/8-11?
Hi Mark:
My standard pin is 3/8-10 but I used a .360-11 for a long time.
Thanks Bryan,
I was just wondering cause it looks like 3/8-11
what would you charge for Tulipwood forearm and Butt (no points) simple ring work at a,b,c,d,& e linen wrap ? 2 shafts ?
Hi Jeff:
The price for that cue is $745 and includes shipping. I priced it with a linen wrap, leather is available for $50 more. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Hi Bryan, was wondering how much would it cost me to have a slightly over 4 ounce shaft made? Ferrule would be melamine and railroad ringwork. Thanks.
Regards.
Brice
Hello Brice, the price on my shafts with nice ring work is $150. Getting one in the +4 ounce range when depend on availability as these shafts are less common.
Hi Bryan. I have a question. What is cheaper to buy a Willie hoppe cue on ebay and get it redone cause I like the color fromate or have one made to that formate . I know that Prather cues sell the splice butt. I sold my Bender cue so I want to replace it with a Willie hoppe color formate cue. I hope this will be my last cue. I’m not getting any younger. I have a sneaky pete cue from Prather . Please let me know .I know it take about 3 to four months to make a good cue. Mahalo……..Ben
I think its better to build from scratch. The genuine willie hoppe blanks don’t always work so well.
What is the lead time on a typical cue….like the spliced models that were available 9until ecently) on your website? I really like your approach and would be very interested in ordering one in the near future. I also prefer a long pro taper…like the Predator 314. With this long taper would your cue still have a firm hit? I have seen / tried other conventional shafts with this taper that seem much too whippy for my liking.
Thanks in advance,
Dane Peshe
Current lead time is around 4 to 5 months on most cues. My shaft taper is not that unlike a Predators, I also prefer a stiffer/firm hitting shaft. Please let me know if I can be of further help.
Bryan,
I have read some very complimentary reviews of the playability of your cues. And I’m certainly comfortable with your workmanship. So I can safely say that I will call you to discuss an order after the holidays.
Your response to my shaft question tells me that one of your standard $400.00 cues would fit the bill. I’m not a collecter so playability is my #1 priority. I prefer an ivory joint with a 3/8×10 pin. So can you tell me what the upcharge would be for one of your standard cues that we see for $400.00 with an ivory joint? Also can you give me your take on the hit of your standard joint material , which, I assume is some type of phenolic in comparison to your standard joint material? My experience has been with one solid ivory joint (years ago) and lately the 5/16thx14 stainless steel joints.
Thanks,
Dane
Hi Dane:
I appreciate comments. I would be happy to work with you on a cue. I’m not a big user of ivory these days. I have always thought of it as a nice material but it is costly. Ivory joints add $150 to the price of the cue. I honestly don’t feel there is an improvement to the hit in my cues using this material. I really feel phenolic is the best material for cue collars and butt caps. Phenolic very rarely cracks whereas it can be a problem with ivory. My point is why pay more for a material that can potentially do this.
Hi Bryan, I was wondering if you are still making sneaky petes, if so I was interested in one with a bacote splice into BEM. Natural collars with your ring work and one shaft with your standard ferrule and tip. What would the deposit be as well as the turn around time? Thanks!
Hi Jason, yes I am still making SP’s. I usually make them in small groups and have plans to make a group next month. The SP you described would be $340 shipped. The deposit is $170. I would have it ready sometime early December. Just shoot me an email with your contact info and I will send you an invoice.
Hey Bryan,
I have a cue thats wrapless. I was wondering if it possible to put a leather wrap on it? And if so what your turn around time for that and the cost ?
Hi Mark:
It possible to do this but the butt must be perfectly straight in order to cut a good wrap groove. I would put the cost of that job at $140. I weed need the cue for a week.
Bryan
Hi Bryan,
Thanks for your inout on ivory vs. the Aegis-2. I makes a lot of sense. I like the fact that the Aegis-2 is as “bullet proof” from what I hear and it looks great. I especially like the cue #200958. Your approach in designs are really beautifully straight forward ….. very traditional and your woods and workmanship and craftsmanship are first rate. Is cue #200958 a spilce or are the points inlays? All of my cues, in the past, i.e., a Predator 4K3 have been inlayed point and I’ve never played with a fully spliced cue. I’d like to know what your opinion is regarding playability. Are there diffences in hit? I know everybody’s got their own opinion of inlays vs. spliced, especially with the “sneaky pete” guys swear by the spliced cues, but I’ve also discussed this with other players who tell me that there is really no difference at all.
I also have a question about cue ball deflection. I’ve been using 314 shafts for about 3 years now. I like the lower deflection playability and accuracy, but like a lot of people say, they Predators don’t have a rewarding feel of a first rate conventional hard maple shaft. I’ve heard very good reviews about the “hit” of a BCM shafts, but can you tell me if the deflection of your shafts compared to the laminated 314′s? I’ve played for years with conventional shafts until the last several years. I guess the “holy grail” is a shaft/cue that has a rewarding feel of solid maple with the deflection of a good laminated shaft. Sorry for the length of my email, but I’d like to get your take on the shafts.
Thanks, as always,
Dane
Hello Dane:
That birdseye and purpleheart four point had a short splice front. I believe any cues hit is the result of the sum of all its parts. These parts, materials, and assembly process will determine the final hit. Many customers of mine have selected a Predator option for their BCM cue. I can make a custom matched 314 for any of my cues. That being said I personally think a lot of my shafts and their playability. I happen to prefer a traditional pro-taper shaft with a medium stiff hit. While Predator shafts have a nice taper and play nice, they do play differently of course. You also pay a premium for that brand. It all boils down to personal preference. I suggest spending some time playing with my traditional shaft and you can always get a matched Predator shaft later.
Hi Bryan,
Have read many good reviews of your work on the AZ forum, and am looking forward to getting my first custom cue so i just have some questions for you, do bear with me as i’m kinda new to this ..
Is it possible to have the shafts turned to 12.5mm but still retain the shape of your custom taper, how much will playability be affected ? I’m thinking a cue that’s forward-balanced, 19 – 20oz, 12.5mm shafts, possible ?
I’ve got small hands so having a thinner shaft helps when using a closed bridge, and will there be additional cost for this request ?
I’ve seen your Excel price sheet and noticed that it lists Wizard and Premium tips, i’m guessing premium stands for any tip that i would want installed, correct me if i’m wrong here .. i have preference for Kamui Black SS tips , but what would you recommend that’s best for your cues?
Lastly, i live in the Asian tropic regions, the weather and high humidity is a drastic change from where you are, would there be any special preparation for a cue coming over here and how would that affect the delivery time ?
Hope to hear from you soon , many thanks in advance !
Kenny
Hi Kenny, thanks for your comments. Yes, you can have your shaft sized down to 12.5 mm without running into issues. I always blend any taper when a smaller size is requested. The idea is to maintain as much rigidity as possibly while still delivering the requested size. Tips are very much a personal preference, my favorites are: wizard, kamui, wb, and moori. You can’t go wrong with any of those. The Kamui’s are a premium tip and priced accordingly. Extreme changes in climate can always produce potential problems for cues. All of my cues are made from stable pieces of wood and sealed with epoxy prior to finishing with clear coat. This helps slow any rapid release or gain of moisture that may cause warping. My build process is consistent regardless of where its going. I do my best to make sure the final product is in the best possible shape, the rest is in mother natures hands.
If you have any other questions just let me know.
Bryan
Thanks for the enlightenment Bryan ! Will get back to you !
Hi Bryan,
I have a Sierra cue with a leather wrap and wondering what it would cost and how long it would take to refinish the butt. It has a few bumps and bruises on the forearm and butt.
I am not sure if you do any repair or refinishing work but thought I would inquire.
Thanks,
George
Hi,
I’m interested in a snooker style cue for pool. The features I’m interested in are a flat-sided butt, wood to wood joint, 10mm tip, and made of ash. If you’re interested, let me know. Thanks.
Hi Brian:
I’ve never made a snooker cue but would be happy to have a crack at it. Give me an email with your phone number and lets talk about it.
Bryan
Hi Bryan,
I’ve had one of your earlier 4 pt. purpleheart w/3 thin inlays (black/purpleheart/red) into a maple forearm, black butt cap w/double R.R. ring, black joint w/double R.R. rings and a black wrap for quite a while. What is the cost to re-hab. it and how long does it take? Butt cap does have a small chip on it, the rest is normal wear and tear.
Thanks for letting me know.
Wayne Nance
CueKOTE International Co.
Greensboro, NC 27410
phone: 1-800-710-2832
e-mail: wnance@triad.rr.com
Hi Wayne:
I hope your doing well Wayne, I would be happy to help. If you need a refinish it would be $150 and includes a new linen wrap. Turn around time is 2 weeks. Glad to read your still shooting with your BCM!
Bryan
Bryan,
Your cues look great and seem to enjoy a great reputation. I am am wondering if you offer “old wood” shafts and what is your take on these woods and others (like bowling alley wood)?
Thanks,
Robert
Hi Robert:
Thanks for the kind words. All of the wood used in my cues is aged in various degrees. When it comes to shafts my grading criteria is fairly simple; I want a shaft that is clean (no sugar marks or mineral deposits) and straight. High ring count is nice but is by no means necessary for me. I haven’t gotten into the bowling alley maple or the submerged timbers. I would imagine these “specialty” type maples are even harder to find with regularity. I am very happy with the maple I am currently using. Thanks for the question.
Bryan
also forgot to ask what tips do you normally put on your shafts ? they do not look laminated, are they ? thanks again
My stock tip is the WB brand of water buffalo tips. They are one of the my favorite hard tips on the market.
Hi Brian,
How much for a set (2m-1f) of rosewood 3/8×10 joint protectors for one of your cues I have ?
A set of 3 black delrin JP’s $20 shipped.