Post your questions here and I will do my best to answer them.
86 Responses
mike
I have a Joss 20 ounce cue, I would like you to create me a new shaft, and also if possible change the weight from 20 to 18 ounces. I meet you once at Shoot the Bull when you were returning a project you did for Mark. I was very impressed with your work. I know Rick Morris an saw the sneaky pete you created for him.
my name is thomas from germany. i’ve just bought a used bcm cocobolo cue. it’s the one with no inlays and with the 20 slots railroad rings. now i wanna know if you can make me a shaft for that cue? it should have a 29,5″ length, a diameter of 12,6mm at the tip, 20mm long standard ferule, a moori medium tip and very bright and, if it’s possible, heavy wood. should have a minimum of 3,8oz. if you can make it, how much woukd it be and how long does it take to do it? by the way, the cocobolo cue plays simply perfect for me.
greets from germany
thomas
My base price for shafts with the nice rings is $150. Moori tips please add $20. I will need to know the exact diameter measurement of the joint, it should be around .850″. Email me with your contact info if you would like me to get started. It will take about 2 weeks to make the shaft. I’m glad to read that you are enjoying the cue!
February 3, 2011 at 8:02 am
Mark
Bryan,
What are the standard pins you use on your cues? Are they 3/8-10 or 3/8-11?
The price for that cue is $745 and includes shipping. I priced it with a linen wrap, leather is available for $50 more. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Hello Brice, the price on my shafts with nice ring work is $150. Getting one in the +4 ounce range when depend on availability as these shafts are less common.
Hi Bryan. I have a question. What is cheaper to buy a Willie hoppe cue on ebay and get it redone cause I like the color fromate or have one made to that formate . I know that Prather cues sell the splice butt. I sold my Bender cue so I want to replace it with a Willie hoppe color formate cue. I hope this will be my last cue. I’m not getting any younger. I have a sneaky pete cue from Prather . Please let me know .I know it take about 3 to four months to make a good cue. Mahalo……..Ben
What is the lead time on a typical cue….like the spliced models that were available 9until ecently) on your website? I really like your approach and would be very interested in ordering one in the near future. I also prefer a long pro taper…like the Predator 314. With this long taper would your cue still have a firm hit? I have seen / tried other conventional shafts with this taper that seem much too whippy for my liking.
Thanks in advance,
Dane Peshe
Current lead time is around 4 to 5 months on most cues. My shaft taper is not that unlike a Predators, I also prefer a stiffer/firm hitting shaft. Please let me know if I can be of further help.
Bryan,
I have read some very complimentary reviews of the playability of your cues. And I’m certainly comfortable with your workmanship. So I can safely say that I will call you to discuss an order after the holidays.
Your response to my shaft question tells me that one of your standard $400.00 cues would fit the bill. I’m not a collecter so playability is my #1 priority. I prefer an ivory joint with a 3/8×10 pin. So can you tell me what the upcharge would be for one of your standard cues that we see for $400.00 with an ivory joint? Also can you give me your take on the hit of your standard joint material , which, I assume is some type of phenolic in comparison to your standard joint material? My experience has been with one solid ivory joint (years ago) and lately the 5/16thx14 stainless steel joints.
Thanks,
Dane
I appreciate comments. I would be happy to work with you on a cue. I’m not a big user of ivory these days. I have always thought of it as a nice material but it is costly. Ivory joints add $150 to the price of the cue. I honestly don’t feel there is an improvement to the hit in my cues using this material. I really feel phenolic is the best material for cue collars and butt caps. Phenolic very rarely cracks whereas it can be a problem with ivory. My point is why pay more for a material that can potentially do this.
December 28, 2009 at 6:55 pm
Jason Ocampo
Hi Bryan, I was wondering if you are still making sneaky petes, if so I was interested in one with a bacote splice into BEM. Natural collars with your ring work and one shaft with your standard ferrule and tip. What would the deposit be as well as the turn around time? Thanks!
Hi Jason, yes I am still making SP’s. I usually make them in small groups and have plans to make a group next month. The SP you described would be $340 shipped. The deposit is $170. I would have it ready sometime early December. Just shoot me an email with your contact info and I will send you an invoice.
Hey Bryan,
I have a cue thats wrapless. I was wondering if it possible to put a leather wrap on it? And if so what your turn around time for that and the cost ?
It possible to do this but the butt must be perfectly straight in order to cut a good wrap groove. I would put the cost of that job at $140. I weed need the cue for a week.
Thanks for your inout on ivory vs. the Aegis-2. I makes a lot of sense. I like the fact that the Aegis-2 is as “bullet proof” from what I hear and it looks great. I especially like the cue #200958. Your approach in designs are really beautifully straight forward ….. very traditional and your woods and workmanship and craftsmanship are first rate. Is cue #200958 a spilce or are the points inlays? All of my cues, in the past, i.e., a Predator 4K3 have been inlayed point and I’ve never played with a fully spliced cue. I’d like to know what your opinion is regarding playability. Are there diffences in hit? I know everybody’s got their own opinion of inlays vs. spliced, especially with the “sneaky pete” guys swear by the spliced cues, but I’ve also discussed this with other players who tell me that there is really no difference at all.
I also have a question about cue ball deflection. I’ve been using 314 shafts for about 3 years now. I like the lower deflection playability and accuracy, but like a lot of people say, they Predators don’t have a rewarding feel of a first rate conventional hard maple shaft. I’ve heard very good reviews about the “hit” of a BCM shafts, but can you tell me if the deflection of your shafts compared to the laminated 314′s? I’ve played for years with conventional shafts until the last several years. I guess the “holy grail” is a shaft/cue that has a rewarding feel of solid maple with the deflection of a good laminated shaft. Sorry for the length of my email, but I’d like to get your take on the shafts.
Thanks, as always,
Dane
That birdseye and purpleheart four point had a short splice front. I believe any cues hit is the result of the sum of all its parts. These parts, materials, and assembly process will determine the final hit. Many customers of mine have selected a Predator option for their BCM cue. I can make a custom matched 314 for any of my cues. That being said I personally think a lot of my shafts and their playability. I happen to prefer a traditional pro-taper shaft with a medium stiff hit. While Predator shafts have a nice taper and play nice, they do play differently of course. You also pay a premium for that brand. It all boils down to personal preference. I suggest spending some time playing with my traditional shaft and you can always get a matched Predator shaft later.
Have read many good reviews of your work on the AZ forum, and am looking forward to getting my first custom cue so i just have some questions for you, do bear with me as i’m kinda new to this ..
Is it possible to have the shafts turned to 12.5mm but still retain the shape of your custom taper, how much will playability be affected ? I’m thinking a cue that’s forward-balanced, 19 – 20oz, 12.5mm shafts, possible ?
I’ve got small hands so having a thinner shaft helps when using a closed bridge, and will there be additional cost for this request ?
I’ve seen your Excel price sheet and noticed that it lists Wizard and Premium tips, i’m guessing premium stands for any tip that i would want installed, correct me if i’m wrong here .. i have preference for Kamui Black SS tips , but what would you recommend that’s best for your cues?
Lastly, i live in the Asian tropic regions, the weather and high humidity is a drastic change from where you are, would there be any special preparation for a cue coming over here and how would that affect the delivery time ?
Hope to hear from you soon , many thanks in advance !
Kenny
Hi Kenny, thanks for your comments. Yes, you can have your shaft sized down to 12.5 mm without running into issues. I always blend any taper when a smaller size is requested. The idea is to maintain as much rigidity as possibly while still delivering the requested size. Tips are very much a personal preference, my favorites are: wizard, kamui, wb, and moori. You can’t go wrong with any of those. The Kamui’s are a premium tip and priced accordingly. Extreme changes in climate can always produce potential problems for cues. All of my cues are made from stable pieces of wood and sealed with epoxy prior to finishing with clear coat. This helps slow any rapid release or gain of moisture that may cause warping. My build process is consistent regardless of where its going. I do my best to make sure the final product is in the best possible shape, the rest is in mother natures hands.
Thanks for the enlightenment Bryan ! Will get back to you !
January 21, 2010 at 11:24 pm
George Teyechea
Hi Bryan,
I have a Sierra cue with a leather wrap and wondering what it would cost and how long it would take to refinish the butt. It has a few bumps and bruises on the forearm and butt.
I am not sure if you do any repair or refinishing work but thought I would inquire.
I’m interested in a snooker style cue for pool. The features I’m interested in are a flat-sided butt, wood to wood joint, 10mm tip, and made of ash. If you’re interested, let me know. Thanks.
I’ve had one of your earlier 4 pt. purpleheart w/3 thin inlays (black/purpleheart/red) into a maple forearm, black butt cap w/double R.R. ring, black joint w/double R.R. rings and a black wrap for quite a while. What is the cost to re-hab. it and how long does it take? Butt cap does have a small chip on it, the rest is normal wear and tear.
Thanks for letting me know.
Wayne Nance
CueKOTE International Co.
Greensboro, NC 27410
phone: 1-800-710-2832
e-mail: wnance@triad.rr.com
I hope your doing well Wayne, I would be happy to help. If you need a refinish it would be $150 and includes a new linen wrap. Turn around time is 2 weeks. Glad to read your still shooting with your BCM!
Your cues look great and seem to enjoy a great reputation. I am am wondering if you offer “old wood” shafts and what is your take on these woods and others (like bowling alley wood)?
Thanks for the kind words. All of the wood used in my cues is aged in various degrees. When it comes to shafts my grading criteria is fairly simple; I want a shaft that is clean (no sugar marks or mineral deposits) and straight. High ring count is nice but is by no means necessary for me. I haven’t gotten into the bowling alley maple or the submerged timbers. I would imagine these “specialty” type maples are even harder to find with regularity. I am very happy with the maple I am currently using. Thanks for the question.
Bryan
Love your work. I am thinking about getting myself a custom cue, I love simple and straight forward looking cues, with the wood itself making the statement. I am thinking about maybe Cocobolo or Amboyna forearm and butt with rings at joint collar and in the butt, with no wrap. I would want it to be 59″ with a 12.75 shaft. I would also like to have a small screw in extension to fit if that’s possible in either cocobolo or even maybe ebony in the 6′ range. I do not need any ivory either as I have been there and done that and had em crack!
I know there are lots of variables here but what sort of price am I looking at and what sort of lead time. Just a very approx Ball Park is obviously all I am expecting.
I wold recommend cocobolo of a burl for the front of a cue, a stronger wood is preferred. I think that cue would be right at $600 with the extension. Delivery time would be 3 to 5 months. Please let me know if I can be of further help and thanks for considering me for the build!
Hi Bryan
I would like to get a quote on how much a cue like the one on your website that is ebony, snakewood & holly (dse 3977) would cost me with 2-shafts, its the cue that’s in the photo under the in the rack photo.
could you make the cue with a black joint & butt cap?
Hi Bryan:
Todd here again, I asked you for a quote on the snakewood cue, i was wondering what kind of time frame you would be looking at to find a good peice of snakewood for that build.
would you be able to get it built by the end of april so I could use it in the vnea national’s in los vagas the end of may.
and one more question have you ever built a 2/3 scale cue before or would you consider trying it i would like to have one built for my 3-year old grandson.
I was wondering how much would it cost to have a sneaky made with nicely figured macassar ebony into a birdseye maple forearm with nickel or silver railroad rings.
Hi Bryan,
We have spoken before and you did a rewrap on one of your cues for me. I am now playing a lot of carom billiards and was wondering if you have ever or would try to build a carom cue ? lighter weight, shorter, straight taper shaft, 1/2 inch ferrule and a reverse balance from a pool cue. what do you think ?
Hi Bryan – I have an older McDermott cue with the 3/8×10 pin. I was wondering if it would be possible to change the pin to your modified 3/8×10 without having to do anything with the shafts I have. Thanks.
If you see a cue on the site and its available then send me an email on it. Payments can be made through PayPal. If your ordering a something new email me a description and I will get you a quote.
I was interested in seeing what’s the time/price quote would be for a plain jane cue with two shafts. I would like to use ebon for forearm and butt and birdseye for wrap. Shaft wise one with your standard taper and one with a little more custom size. Standard ring work/joints/ferrules are fine.
I have recently purchased one of your cues from a friend. This cue was made by you in 2009. The joint has come loose somehow and makes the stick a little crooked. It is the tulip wood but and forearm model. What do I have to do to get this repaired by you. I would also like to have the shaft cleaned.
By the way, I love this cue and am intersted in getting another one made by you. This is by far the truest playing cue out of over a hundred that I have played with.
Hey Bryan, I am a huge fan of your work. I was wondering how much it would be to make a cue with 1 shaft similar to the snakewood/ebony cue you had posted up on your site a while back, and how long is the typical wait time?
I have the simplest question, but can’t seem to get a good straight answer- What is the best way to store cues?? In or out of the case- upright or lying on their sides flat with equal suppport and what is too hot or too cold?? I am leaving several cues in my Tahoe cabin and can’t leave the heat on- It will get down to about 50 degrees – Is that OK?? Should I take them out of the cases and lay them on the floor on a towel?? Should I leave them in their hard cases standing up?? why is this such a mystery?? thanks, Dave McCune
I think that storing your cue in your case is the best solution, it shouldn’t matter which way its oriented. The temps you described shouldn’t give you a problem. As to the mystery behind the question you guess is as good as mine.
Hello Mr. Mordt, I have a John Davis blank that I’ve been hanging for five years now. I’m looking for a cuemaker to convert this blank. It is a full splice rosewood and straight grain maple blank with the typical hoppe color veneers. I was thinking of having it finished as a wrapless cue with no bumper and an ivory hoppe ring and joint. Would you have any recommendations for a wrap or inlays or do you think that my idea would be sufficiant? What do you use for ferrels? An idea on price would be nice also, just a ball park would work. Were you in the Submarine Force? I was. Thank you for you help. Bill
I was wondering if I could get some details (wood type) about the cue pictured in your latest posting. I really like the wood and simple layout of the far right cue. Could you provide a estimated cost to have a cue like that made? THANKS!
Hi Bryan,
Sorry to hear about your parents health issues. Hope all works out well. How much would a curly maple version of the BEM cue you have for sale now be? Approximate time frame to build?
Hey bryan i let some hack change the tip on my cue and he took a lot of meat off the ferrule. what would you charge me for a tip and ferrule? i’m also having a little problem with my wrap.
Bryan, I saw your cocobolo full splice @ Cornerstone site— very nice! Have you used Claro Walnut as a forearm or handle mat’l.? Our thoughts are with you as you are faced with difficult late life decisions for parent. I’m thankful that you’re there for that. Sincerely yours, Mike Baker
Thank you Joe. I do have high figure walnut suitable for points and backs in the shop. I have only done one cue using this wood so far but I have another I am working on now for a client. I appreciate the support!
Am interested in ordering the identical cue you have listed as MARKUS”S on yur most recent site update. I assume that is Olive Wood? Can you give me a cost estimate?
Aloha Bryan I have seen alot of your finish cue and I like the way it look really clean . The pictures of the cues is clear. I got my cue blank from Prather cue and had Coker cue finish it. It turn out great. I’m looking in Prather list of cue blank and saw some thats nice . I would like to find out what would it cost me to finish it with the ring work that you have on most of your cue. I’m window shopping for a nice cue blank on Prather wed site. I haven’t found one yet but like to know the cost . I know it take about 4 to 6 month to completed it. I can wait. Let me know Thanks again Ben…………Mahalo……
Hi Frank, I have never made a masse cue before. To be honest I don’t know what the specs are, if you had some specs I might be able to help. Email me at bryanmordt@gmail.com if you have some.
Hello, I would be happy to help with the refinish on your Southwest cue. The price is $150 plus return shipping. Delivery time is about 7 to 10 business days. I do not however offer they Meucci style of finishing over the wrap. I can offer a smoother feeling wrap if you prefer.
Hey Bryan, for my education, why do you use G10 pins in some cues and steel pins for others? Does the material affect the hit of a cue? BTW, I can’t wait for my cue to come in – it looks gorgeous I highly recommended you to all the folks on AZBilliards.
hi bryan!i would like to inquire how much for a full splice custom cue with 5 venners, wrapless, hoppe ring (similar look to ivory),brown phenolic joint and butt,and just ringwork on the joint and shafts?woods are birdseye maple(forearm), honduran rosewood or brazilian rosewood(burl) (butt).
nice website and nice to have a Q&A section here!:) thanks
I don’t make my own full splice blanks, I have used blanks made by Prathers and John Davis. If you supply the blank your looking at something around $675 with 2 shafts.
Email a close up picture of the shaft ring if possibly. If I am salvaging the ring off an old shaft the price is $150. If I have to build the ring billet it will be more.
I have a Joss 20 ounce cue, I would like you to create me a new shaft, and also if possible change the weight from 20 to 18 ounces. I meet you once at Shoot the Bull when you were returning a project you did for Mark. I was very impressed with your work. I know Rick Morris an saw the sneaky pete you created for him.
April 1, 2009 at 8:13 pm
Hi Mike:
I would be happy to help with the shaft. The weight may or may not be adjustable, I’ll have to check it out.
April 1, 2009 at 9:06 pm
hallo bryan,
my name is thomas from germany. i’ve just bought a used bcm cocobolo cue. it’s the one with no inlays and with the 20 slots railroad rings. now i wanna know if you can make me a shaft for that cue? it should have a 29,5″ length, a diameter of 12,6mm at the tip, 20mm long standard ferule, a moori medium tip and very bright and, if it’s possible, heavy wood. should have a minimum of 3,8oz. if you can make it, how much woukd it be and how long does it take to do it? by the way, the cocobolo cue plays simply perfect for me.
greets from germany
thomas
February 2, 2011 at 3:45 pm
Hello Thomas:
My base price for shafts with the nice rings is $150. Moori tips please add $20. I will need to know the exact diameter measurement of the joint, it should be around .850″. Email me with your contact info if you would like me to get started. It will take about 2 weeks to make the shaft. I’m glad to read that you are enjoying the cue!
February 3, 2011 at 8:02 am
Bryan,
What are the standard pins you use on your cues? Are they 3/8-10 or 3/8-11?
April 12, 2009 at 7:03 pm
Hi Mark:
My standard pin is 3/8-10 but I used a .360-11 for a long time.
April 12, 2009 at 7:07 pm
Thanks Bryan,
I was just wondering cause it looks like 3/8-11
April 12, 2009 at 7:12 pm
what would you charge for Tulipwood forearm and Butt (no points) simple ring work at a,b,c,d,& e linen wrap ? 2 shafts ?
May 20, 2009 at 2:56 pm
Hi Jeff:
The price for that cue is $745 and includes shipping. I priced it with a linen wrap, leather is available for $50 more. If you have any other questions please let me know.
May 20, 2009 at 8:49 pm
Hi Bryan, was wondering how much would it cost me to have a slightly over 4 ounce shaft made? Ferrule would be melamine and railroad ringwork. Thanks.
Regards.
Brice
August 25, 2009 at 6:22 am
Hello Brice, the price on my shafts with nice ring work is $150. Getting one in the +4 ounce range when depend on availability as these shafts are less common.
August 25, 2009 at 8:11 am
Hi Bryan. I have a question. What is cheaper to buy a Willie hoppe cue on ebay and get it redone cause I like the color fromate or have one made to that formate . I know that Prather cues sell the splice butt. I sold my Bender cue so I want to replace it with a Willie hoppe color formate cue. I hope this will be my last cue. I’m not getting any younger. I have a sneaky pete cue from Prather . Please let me know .I know it take about 3 to four months to make a good cue. Mahalo……..Ben
October 12, 2009 at 7:05 am
I think its better to build from scratch. The genuine willie hoppe blanks don’t always work so well.
October 16, 2009 at 10:15 am
What is the lead time on a typical cue….like the spliced models that were available 9until ecently) on your website? I really like your approach and would be very interested in ordering one in the near future. I also prefer a long pro taper…like the Predator 314. With this long taper would your cue still have a firm hit? I have seen / tried other conventional shafts with this taper that seem much too whippy for my liking.
Thanks in advance,
Dane Peshe
October 14, 2009 at 11:13 pm
Current lead time is around 4 to 5 months on most cues. My shaft taper is not that unlike a Predators, I also prefer a stiffer/firm hitting shaft. Please let me know if I can be of further help.
October 16, 2009 at 10:18 am
Bryan,
I have read some very complimentary reviews of the playability of your cues. And I’m certainly comfortable with your workmanship. So I can safely say that I will call you to discuss an order after the holidays.
Your response to my shaft question tells me that one of your standard $400.00 cues would fit the bill. I’m not a collecter so playability is my #1 priority. I prefer an ivory joint with a 3/8×10 pin. So can you tell me what the upcharge would be for one of your standard cues that we see for $400.00 with an ivory joint? Also can you give me your take on the hit of your standard joint material , which, I assume is some type of phenolic in comparison to your standard joint material? My experience has been with one solid ivory joint (years ago) and lately the 5/16thx14 stainless steel joints.
Thanks,
Dane
December 28, 2009 at 2:57 am
Hi Dane:
I appreciate comments. I would be happy to work with you on a cue. I’m not a big user of ivory these days. I have always thought of it as a nice material but it is costly. Ivory joints add $150 to the price of the cue. I honestly don’t feel there is an improvement to the hit in my cues using this material. I really feel phenolic is the best material for cue collars and butt caps. Phenolic very rarely cracks whereas it can be a problem with ivory. My point is why pay more for a material that can potentially do this.
December 28, 2009 at 6:55 pm
Hi Bryan, I was wondering if you are still making sneaky petes, if so I was interested in one with a bacote splice into BEM. Natural collars with your ring work and one shaft with your standard ferrule and tip. What would the deposit be as well as the turn around time? Thanks!
October 27, 2009 at 12:28 pm
Hi Jason, yes I am still making SP’s. I usually make them in small groups and have plans to make a group next month. The SP you described would be $340 shipped. The deposit is $170. I would have it ready sometime early December. Just shoot me an email with your contact info and I will send you an invoice.
October 27, 2009 at 8:13 pm
Hey Bryan,
I have a cue thats wrapless. I was wondering if it possible to put a leather wrap on it? And if so what your turn around time for that and the cost ?
December 30, 2009 at 2:33 am
Hi Mark:
It possible to do this but the butt must be perfectly straight in order to cut a good wrap groove. I would put the cost of that job at $140. I weed need the cue for a week.
Bryan
December 30, 2009 at 8:39 am
Hi Bryan,
Thanks for your inout on ivory vs. the Aegis-2. I makes a lot of sense. I like the fact that the Aegis-2 is as “bullet proof” from what I hear and it looks great. I especially like the cue #200958. Your approach in designs are really beautifully straight forward ….. very traditional and your woods and workmanship and craftsmanship are first rate. Is cue #200958 a spilce or are the points inlays? All of my cues, in the past, i.e., a Predator 4K3 have been inlayed point and I’ve never played with a fully spliced cue. I’d like to know what your opinion is regarding playability. Are there diffences in hit? I know everybody’s got their own opinion of inlays vs. spliced, especially with the “sneaky pete” guys swear by the spliced cues, but I’ve also discussed this with other players who tell me that there is really no difference at all.
I also have a question about cue ball deflection. I’ve been using 314 shafts for about 3 years now. I like the lower deflection playability and accuracy, but like a lot of people say, they Predators don’t have a rewarding feel of a first rate conventional hard maple shaft. I’ve heard very good reviews about the “hit” of a BCM shafts, but can you tell me if the deflection of your shafts compared to the laminated 314′s? I’ve played for years with conventional shafts until the last several years. I guess the “holy grail” is a shaft/cue that has a rewarding feel of solid maple with the deflection of a good laminated shaft. Sorry for the length of my email, but I’d like to get your take on the shafts.
Thanks, as always,
Dane
January 5, 2010 at 12:50 pm
Hello Dane:
That birdseye and purpleheart four point had a short splice front. I believe any cues hit is the result of the sum of all its parts. These parts, materials, and assembly process will determine the final hit. Many customers of mine have selected a Predator option for their BCM cue. I can make a custom matched 314 for any of my cues. That being said I personally think a lot of my shafts and their playability. I happen to prefer a traditional pro-taper shaft with a medium stiff hit. While Predator shafts have a nice taper and play nice, they do play differently of course. You also pay a premium for that brand. It all boils down to personal preference. I suggest spending some time playing with my traditional shaft and you can always get a matched Predator shaft later.
January 11, 2010 at 8:43 am
Hi Bryan,
Have read many good reviews of your work on the AZ forum, and am looking forward to getting my first custom cue so i just have some questions for you, do bear with me as i’m kinda new to this ..
Is it possible to have the shafts turned to 12.5mm but still retain the shape of your custom taper, how much will playability be affected ? I’m thinking a cue that’s forward-balanced, 19 – 20oz, 12.5mm shafts, possible ?
I’ve got small hands so having a thinner shaft helps when using a closed bridge, and will there be additional cost for this request ?
I’ve seen your Excel price sheet and noticed that it lists Wizard and Premium tips, i’m guessing premium stands for any tip that i would want installed, correct me if i’m wrong here .. i have preference for Kamui Black SS tips , but what would you recommend that’s best for your cues?
Lastly, i live in the Asian tropic regions, the weather and high humidity is a drastic change from where you are, would there be any special preparation for a cue coming over here and how would that affect the delivery time ?
Hope to hear from you soon , many thanks in advance !
Kenny
January 19, 2010 at 11:02 pm
Hi Kenny, thanks for your comments. Yes, you can have your shaft sized down to 12.5 mm without running into issues. I always blend any taper when a smaller size is requested. The idea is to maintain as much rigidity as possibly while still delivering the requested size. Tips are very much a personal preference, my favorites are: wizard, kamui, wb, and moori. You can’t go wrong with any of those. The Kamui’s are a premium tip and priced accordingly. Extreme changes in climate can always produce potential problems for cues. All of my cues are made from stable pieces of wood and sealed with epoxy prior to finishing with clear coat. This helps slow any rapid release or gain of moisture that may cause warping. My build process is consistent regardless of where its going. I do my best to make sure the final product is in the best possible shape, the rest is in mother natures hands.
If you have any other questions just let me know.
Bryan
January 20, 2010 at 3:12 pm
Thanks for the enlightenment Bryan ! Will get back to you !
January 21, 2010 at 11:24 pm
Hi Bryan,
I have a Sierra cue with a leather wrap and wondering what it would cost and how long it would take to refinish the butt. It has a few bumps and bruises on the forearm and butt.
I am not sure if you do any repair or refinishing work but thought I would inquire.
Thanks,
George
February 13, 2010 at 11:32 am
Hi,
I’m interested in a snooker style cue for pool. The features I’m interested in are a flat-sided butt, wood to wood joint, 10mm tip, and made of ash. If you’re interested, let me know. Thanks.
February 18, 2010 at 1:20 am
Hi Brian:
I’ve never made a snooker cue but would be happy to have a crack at it. Give me an email with your phone number and lets talk about it.
Bryan
February 18, 2010 at 9:45 pm
Hi Bryan,
I’ve had one of your earlier 4 pt. purpleheart w/3 thin inlays (black/purpleheart/red) into a maple forearm, black butt cap w/double R.R. ring, black joint w/double R.R. rings and a black wrap for quite a while. What is the cost to re-hab. it and how long does it take? Butt cap does have a small chip on it, the rest is normal wear and tear.
Thanks for letting me know.
Wayne Nance
CueKOTE International Co.
Greensboro, NC 27410
phone: 1-800-710-2832
e-mail: wnance@triad.rr.com
February 18, 2010 at 1:42 pm
Hi Wayne:
I hope your doing well Wayne, I would be happy to help. If you need a refinish it would be $150 and includes a new linen wrap. Turn around time is 2 weeks. Glad to read your still shooting with your BCM!
Bryan
February 18, 2010 at 9:48 pm
Bryan,
Your cues look great and seem to enjoy a great reputation. I am am wondering if you offer “old wood” shafts and what is your take on these woods and others (like bowling alley wood)?
Thanks,
Robert
March 9, 2010 at 7:44 pm
Hi Robert:
Thanks for the kind words. All of the wood used in my cues is aged in various degrees. When it comes to shafts my grading criteria is fairly simple; I want a shaft that is clean (no sugar marks or mineral deposits) and straight. High ring count is nice but is by no means necessary for me. I haven’t gotten into the bowling alley maple or the submerged timbers. I would imagine these “specialty” type maples are even harder to find with regularity. I am very happy with the maple I am currently using. Thanks for the question.
Bryan
March 15, 2010 at 10:19 am
also forgot to ask what tips do you normally put on your shafts ? they do not look laminated, are they ? thanks again
June 15, 2010 at 6:56 pm
My stock tip is the WB brand of water buffalo tips. They are one of the my favorite hard tips on the market.
June 22, 2010 at 10:18 pm
Hi Brian,
How much for a set (2m-1f) of rosewood 3/8×10 joint protectors for one of your cues I have ?
June 16, 2010 at 5:56 am
A set of 3 black delrin JP’s $20 shipped.
June 22, 2010 at 10:17 pm
Hay Bryan can you post a few pictures of your ring work options?
thanks
August 15, 2010 at 6:23 am
Bryan
Love your work. I am thinking about getting myself a custom cue, I love simple and straight forward looking cues, with the wood itself making the statement. I am thinking about maybe Cocobolo or Amboyna forearm and butt with rings at joint collar and in the butt, with no wrap. I would want it to be 59″ with a 12.75 shaft. I would also like to have a small screw in extension to fit if that’s possible in either cocobolo or even maybe ebony in the 6′ range. I do not need any ivory either as I have been there and done that and had em crack!
I know there are lots of variables here but what sort of price am I looking at and what sort of lead time. Just a very approx Ball Park is obviously all I am expecting.
August 20, 2010 at 11:19 am
Hi Paul:
I wold recommend cocobolo of a burl for the front of a cue, a stronger wood is preferred. I think that cue would be right at $600 with the extension. Delivery time would be 3 to 5 months. Please let me know if I can be of further help and thanks for considering me for the build!
Bryan
August 20, 2010 at 11:25 am
Hi Bryan
I would like to get a quote on how much a cue like the one on your website that is ebony, snakewood & holly (dse 3977) would cost me with 2-shafts, its the cue that’s in the photo under the in the rack photo.
could you make the cue with a black joint & butt cap?
Thanks Todd A.
September 18, 2010 at 12:14 pm
Hi Bryan:
Todd here again, I asked you for a quote on the snakewood cue, i was wondering what kind of time frame you would be looking at to find a good peice of snakewood for that build.
would you be able to get it built by the end of april so I could use it in the vnea national’s in los vagas the end of may.
and one more question have you ever built a 2/3 scale cue before or would you consider trying it i would like to have one built for my 3-year old grandson.
thanks for taking time to read my e-mail:
Todd A.
September 25, 2010 at 11:58 pm
Hi Bryan,
I was wondering how much would it cost to have a sneaky made with nicely figured macassar ebony into a birdseye maple forearm with nickel or silver railroad rings.
Thanks for your time,
Ray
October 7, 2010 at 7:57 pm
Hi Ray, that cue would go for $425 shipped.
October 9, 2010 at 12:01 pm
Hi Bryan,
We have spoken before and you did a rewrap on one of your cues for me. I am now playing a lot of carom billiards and was wondering if you have ever or would try to build a carom cue ? lighter weight, shorter, straight taper shaft, 1/2 inch ferrule and a reverse balance from a pool cue. what do you think ?
November 17, 2010 at 3:07 pm
Hi Bryan – I have an older McDermott cue with the 3/8×10 pin. I was wondering if it would be possible to change the pin to your modified 3/8×10 without having to do anything with the shafts I have. Thanks.
November 29, 2010 at 6:22 am
Hello, yes it is possible to take the old pin out and replace it with the modern version. Your looking at $50 for that job.
November 29, 2010 at 10:54 am
hi. what is your standard shaft taper?
January 15, 2011 at 7:31 pm
My shafts typically have a medium stiff taper (+.050″ at the midpoint). The shaft diameter increases at a constant but gradual rate.
January 16, 2011 at 7:13 pm
hi~Bryan
I’m come from Taiwan, could you tell me how to buy your cues, thanks!Evan
January 16, 2011 at 12:25 am
Hi Evan:
If you see a cue on the site and its available then send me an email on it. Payments can be made through PayPal. If your ordering a something new email me a description and I will get you a quote.
Thanks,
Bryan
January 16, 2011 at 7:09 pm
Hey Bryan,
I was interested in seeing what’s the time/price quote would be for a plain jane cue with two shafts. I would like to use ebon for forearm and butt and birdseye for wrap. Shaft wise one with your standard taper and one with a little more custom size. Standard ring work/joints/ferrules are fine.
Thanks in advance,
Dave.
February 1, 2011 at 8:04 pm
Hi Dave:
I think we spoke on the phone yesterday but in case we didn’t that cue would sell for $770 with 2 shafts (shipped).
February 3, 2011 at 8:05 am
I have recently purchased one of your cues from a friend. This cue was made by you in 2009. The joint has come loose somehow and makes the stick a little crooked. It is the tulip wood but and forearm model. What do I have to do to get this repaired by you. I would also like to have the shaft cleaned.
By the way, I love this cue and am intersted in getting another one made by you. This is by far the truest playing cue out of over a hundred that I have played with.
Thanks for your time,
Kevin
February 6, 2011 at 8:27 am
Hi Kevin:
Please send the cue to me and I will repair it. Thanks for the very kind words about my work! My address is…
Bryan Mordt
1147 E Elm Rd
San Tan Valley, AZ 85140
February 6, 2011 at 10:29 am
Hey Bryan, I am a huge fan of your work. I was wondering how much it would be to make a cue with 1 shaft similar to the snakewood/ebony cue you had posted up on your site a while back, and how long is the typical wait time?
Keep up the incredible work!
February 9, 2011 at 1:18 pm
Depending on the exact layout it would be around $845. Delivery time is 5 to 6 months. Thanks for the support!
February 9, 2011 at 2:13 pm
I have the simplest question, but can’t seem to get a good straight answer- What is the best way to store cues?? In or out of the case- upright or lying on their sides flat with equal suppport and what is too hot or too cold?? I am leaving several cues in my Tahoe cabin and can’t leave the heat on- It will get down to about 50 degrees – Is that OK?? Should I take them out of the cases and lay them on the floor on a towel?? Should I leave them in their hard cases standing up?? why is this such a mystery?? thanks, Dave McCune
February 16, 2011 at 1:05 am
Hi Dave:
I think that storing your cue in your case is the best solution, it shouldn’t matter which way its oriented. The temps you described shouldn’t give you a problem. As to the mystery behind the question you guess is as good as mine.
February 16, 2011 at 11:36 am
Hello Mr. Mordt, I have a John Davis blank that I’ve been hanging for five years now. I’m looking for a cuemaker to convert this blank. It is a full splice rosewood and straight grain maple blank with the typical hoppe color veneers. I was thinking of having it finished as a wrapless cue with no bumper and an ivory hoppe ring and joint. Would you have any recommendations for a wrap or inlays or do you think that my idea would be sufficiant? What do you use for ferrels? An idea on price would be nice also, just a ball park would work. Were you in the Submarine Force? I was. Thank you for you help. Bill
March 7, 2011 at 9:04 am
I was wondering if I could get some details (wood type) about the cue pictured in your latest posting. I really like the wood and simple layout of the far right cue. Could you provide a estimated cost to have a cue like that made? THANKS!
March 18, 2011 at 5:08 am
Hi Bryan,
Could you give me a quote for a simple curly maple cue, with a white butt and joint rings? do you also carry white/green speck irish linen?
Thank you,
Richard
May 14, 2011 at 6:23 pm
Hi Richard, that cue would be $400 as you described.
May 15, 2011 at 9:32 am
Hi Bryan,
Sorry to hear about your parents health issues. Hope all works out well. How much would a curly maple version of the BEM cue you have for sale now be? Approximate time frame to build?
Thank you.
Marty
May 28, 2011 at 4:20 pm
Hi Marty:
That cue would be the same price as the birdseye which is $460. I appreciate the kind words about my parents.
Bryan
May 28, 2011 at 7:15 pm
Hey bryan i let some hack change the tip on my cue and he took a lot of meat off the ferrule. what would you charge me for a tip and ferrule? i’m also having a little problem with my wrap.
please give me a call when you get the chance
June 10, 2011 at 1:55 am
Bryan, I saw your cocobolo full splice @ Cornerstone site— very nice! Have you used Claro Walnut as a forearm or handle mat’l.? Our thoughts are with you as you are faced with difficult late life decisions for parent. I’m thankful that you’re there for that. Sincerely yours, Mike Baker
June 11, 2011 at 7:04 am
Thank you Joe. I do have high figure walnut suitable for points and backs in the shop. I have only done one cue using this wood so far but I have another I am working on now for a client. I appreciate the support!
June 29, 2011 at 1:02 pm
Brrian
Am interested in ordering the identical cue you have listed as MARKUS”S on yur most recent site update. I assume that is Olive Wood? Can you give me a cost estimate?
Thnx
Randy M
July 6, 2011 at 4:08 am
Aloha Bryan I have seen alot of your finish cue and I like the way it look really clean . The pictures of the cues is clear. I got my cue blank from Prather cue and had Coker cue finish it. It turn out great. I’m looking in Prather list of cue blank and saw some thats nice . I would like to find out what would it cost me to finish it with the ring work that you have on most of your cue. I’m window shopping for a nice cue blank on Prather wed site. I haven’t found one yet but like to know the cost . I know it take about 4 to 6 month to completed it. I can wait. Let me know Thanks again Ben…………Mahalo……
July 31, 2011 at 5:22 am
Brian,
I was wondering if you had any experience with making masse cues? I am in the market and thought I’d touch base with you before going elsewhere.
August 1, 2011 at 12:25 am
Hi Frank, I have never made a masse cue before. To be honest I don’t know what the specs are, if you had some specs I might be able to help. Email me at bryanmordt@gmail.com if you have some.
August 2, 2011 at 10:00 am
Bryan, could you notify me whenever you have a few extra sneaky Petes ready? I ordered one cue from you, and I plan on a few more. Thank you.
-Perry
September 20, 2011 at 1:10 am
Hi Perry, I would be happy to do that. Right now I have quite a few orders in progress but I am hoping to have some ready in December.
September 20, 2011 at 12:36 pm
If you ever have a few sneaky Petes done up, let me know. Thanks Bryan
September 24, 2011 at 5:52 am
Hi Perry, will do.
September 28, 2011 at 10:23 am
hello
hi im jaegyu~ southkorean.
i have 1999 southwest cue. so i want refinish for butt(like a meucci cue style : coated handle)
how much? if you can do, how may days wait?
thanks
October 12, 2011 at 12:36 pm
Hello, I would be happy to help with the refinish on your Southwest cue. The price is $150 plus return shipping. Delivery time is about 7 to 10 business days. I do not however offer they Meucci style of finishing over the wrap. I can offer a smoother feeling wrap if you prefer.
October 12, 2011 at 9:07 pm
Hi Bryan, would like to ask if you could do inlays for my predator shaft.
November 23, 2011 at 11:48 pm
Hi Sherman, I do not offer inlay work at this time.
November 24, 2011 at 8:57 am
Hey Bryan, for my education, why do you use G10 pins in some cues and steel pins for others? Does the material affect the hit of a cue? BTW, I can’t wait for my cue to come in – it looks gorgeous
I highly recommended you to all the folks on AZBilliards.
December 3, 2011 at 1:12 am
I only use the G-10 when I have a weight issue to deal with. I really prefer the stainless but there is really little difference in hit.
December 4, 2011 at 2:24 am
hi bryan!i would like to inquire how much for a full splice custom cue with 5 venners, wrapless, hoppe ring (similar look to ivory),brown phenolic joint and butt,and just ringwork on the joint and shafts?woods are birdseye maple(forearm), honduran rosewood or brazilian rosewood(burl) (butt).
nice website and nice to have a Q&A section here!:) thanks
January 5, 2012 at 3:13 am
Hello Mike:
I don’t make my own full splice blanks, I have used blanks made by Prathers and John Davis. If you supply the blank your looking at something around $675 with 2 shafts.
January 13, 2012 at 10:58 am
ah ok, how about custom shaft and ring work and collar of the shaft?how much for that?my ring work design is southwest style into bacote.
thanks bryan
January 25, 2012 at 3:14 am
Hi Mike:
Email a close up picture of the shaft ring if possibly. If I am salvaging the ring off an old shaft the price is $150. If I have to build the ring billet it will be more.
Thanks.
January 25, 2012 at 9:04 am